How to: Get the most out of your engine break in at R6Central.com

R6Pirate · 01-24-2008, 01:32 PM

Posted by asphaltpilot on R6Messagenet

I read this some time ago. I've been looking to verify the source but can't find it. It's a good article none-the-less

ENGINE BREAK-IN
The first few hundred miles of a new engine's life have a major impact on how strongly that engine will perform, how much oil it will consume and how long it will last..... We ask four top engine builders what they do to ensure peak power output and optimum engine life..........piston ring and cylinder seating is critical to get a proper seal for power output and oil consumption.....If the wrong type of oil is used initially or the breakin is too easy, rings and cylinders could glaze and never seal properly.

A fresh cylinder wall needs some medium to high engine loadings to get the piston rings to seat properly for good compression but don't lug or overheat the engine either. Use high quality low viscosity oil (Valvoline 30 weight eg.) no synthetics, too slippery, if used during initial breakin the rings are sure to glaze.

Initial run should be used to bring oil and coolant up to temperature only, with little or no load, then shut off and allow to cool right down. After thorough cool down (ambient temp), start up and ride under light loads at relativly low rpm 3000-5000 rpm, keep out of top gear, lugging is more detrimental than high rpm. Key advice, constantly vary load on engine, a constant load is not ideal for breaking in bearing tolerances. This run should last only 10-15 minutes before another complete cool down.

The next run should be slightly higher rpm, 5000-7000 and under light to medium loads using short bursts of acceleration to seat the rings in early. Again 10-15 minutes of running should do it and again avoid top gear. Allow to cool right down. The third run should consist of light to medium engine loads with a few more bursts of medium-high rpm, 8000-9000 rpm max, and lasting just 10-15 minutes varying the engine load and avoiding top gear.

Next while the engine is still warm drain the oil and change the filter. This gets out the new metal particles that are being worn away. Al Ludington from Vance and Hines feels most of the metal particles will break away within first 50 -75 miles, get them out soon after. To ensure the rings seat well, use same high quality oil and don't be shy about short duration high rpm blasts through the lower gears after the oil has been changed.

A few more 15-20 minute sessions should be used to work up to the engine's redline gradually increasing the engine loads. After some definite hard running and 250-500 miles it's a good idea to check the valves. After 500 miles retorquing the head is suggested. Switch to snythetic oil but not before 500-1500 miles. Most of the engine experts warned of the danger of breaking in the engine too easily and ending up with an engine that will always run slow whether it is from tight tolerances, inadequate ring seal or carbon buildup.

Engine load is more detrimental than rpm, so avoid lugging the engine but rev it freely especially in the lower gears. Muzzy summed up his break-in concerns most concisely: Basically, be sure not to get it too hot but be sure to seat the rings properly. Its that simple...........

So that's it, sure a lot different than keeping under 4000 rpm for 500 miles then under 5000 rpm for 1000 miles. Maybe bike manufacturers are being super cautious at the expense of your motor's performance? I think that they take the cautious route that works over time (1000 miles, or about 20 hours of break in) versus a faster route that can be more easily screwed up.
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RmeDoc · 01-26-2008, 01:24 AM

So if I have 350 miles on my bike, and have been using what was said in the owner's manual as this was my 1st ever bike, am I really that screwed for future engine performance, or can it be fixed?

Thanks for the help!

Lost · 01-26-2008, 02:11 AM

This is my perfered method..

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Lost · 01-26-2008, 02:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rmedoc

So if I have 350 miles on my bike, and have been using what was said in the owner's manual as this was my 1st ever bike, am I really that screwed for future engine performance, or can it be fixed?

Thanks for the help!

Your most likely fine. If you really think your bike is no bueno, buy (23 or 36 bucks, get the 36 dollar one)) a compression tester from napa and see how you are doing. If you motor sucks at life get new rings and hone the cylinder and start over with the break in...

Sherman · 01-26-2008, 07:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rmedoc

So if I have 350 miles on my bike, and have been using what was said in the owner's manual as this was my 1st ever bike, am I really that screwed for future engine performance, or can it be fixed?

Thanks for the help!

I am sure you're ok.

i'll use the mototune breakin if I ever get a new bike, because I believe it is better than the owners manuals break in way. BUT, I don't think it'll make a huge differance really... You're not going to be down something drastic like 10hp or anything from a bike broken in hard.

And your compression might be a tad less than one broken in with the method above, but I really don't think it would warrent rebuilding the engine!!!

RmeDoc · 01-26-2008, 12:35 PM

Thanks for the replies. I figured I would be ok, as it is the recommended way by the manufacturer. I also don't think I will miss that much power, as I don't plan on racing anybody aside from having some fun at track days once this thing is paid off. Thanks again.

BlueStreak R6 · 02-04-2008, 04:58 AM

IS this guy for real? run it hard? Who's on board for this type of break in? I am going to pick up the new bike in a week of so and I want to break in the motor for maximum life and power. Now I dont know what to do.

Kyles R6 · 02-04-2008, 03:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlueStreak R6

IS this guy for real? run it hard? Who's on board for this type of break in? I am going to pick up the new bike in a week of so and I want to break in the motor for maximum life and power. Now I dont know what to do.

FUCK YEA ride that shit like you stole it!

not joking either, i dont believe that break in period. they run it hard from the factory to make sure everything seats properly then put it in the bike. no point in breaking it in

r6_4life · 02-04-2008, 04:01 PM

i pushed my cbr125 HARD once it was out of the showroom and i was able to hit 120-130, while other ppl can only hit 110. So im pretty sure breaking it in hard does help a little.

Lost · 02-05-2008, 10:34 PM

Moto tune break in is what i try to emulate. Another words, i start it up and lightly rev for a few min till its hot, let cool down. x3, change oil then take it out and progressivly ride it harder and harder. Change oil - done Best option is to just to take it out to a track and ride it. You gotta wait for the tires to warm up but after that, let it rip!